How to transport miniatures safely
Most miniatures are damaged not on the table but on the way to it. A figure that shifts a few millimetres with every step of the walk to the game store wears its paint off in a single trip. This guide covers what actually protects a model, how to pack for different journeys, and what to carry in case something breaks anyway.
What damages miniatures in transit
Three things, in order of how often they happen:
- Rubbing. Small, repeated movement against foam, other models or the box. It is slow and invisible until the edges of a cloak have gone back to bare plastic.
- Impact on thin parts. When the bag is dropped or jolted, the model moves until something stops it. If that something is the tip of a spear, the spear breaks.
- Heat. A car in summer gets hot enough to soften PLA and some resins and to make varnish tacky. Models left in a parked car can warp or stick to their packing.
Everything below is about removing those three: stop the model from moving, make sure nothing presses on the fragile parts, and keep it out of the heat.
Choosing a way to hold the models
| Method | Good at | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|
| Pluck or pre-cut foam | Cheap, light, easy to get | Rectangular pockets let models rattle; foam sheds and compresses over time; thin parts snag when pulling a model out |
| Magnetic trays | Fast to pack; models on metal or magnetised bases stay put | Only holds the base — a tall model still pivots on it; every base needs a magnet or steel |
| Fitted case, one pocket per model | Holds the whole figure, including fragile parts; nothing can move | Needs the model’s STL and a 3D printer (or a laser cutter) |
| Bubble wrap or tissue | Fine for a one-off trip or shipping | Slow to unpack at a table; wraps can snag and pull parts off |
Most players end up mixing methods: magnets for large numbers of uniform troops, a fitted case for characters, monsters and anything with thin parts. If you print your own models, a fitted case is the method that also protects the fragile parts.
Packing a bag, step by step
- Check every model before packingLook for loose parts and re-glue them at home, where you have time for the glue to cure, rather than discovering them at the table.
- Give each model its own placePut each figure in its own pocket or magnetised spot so no two models touch. Fragile parts should face into open space or a fitted recess, never against a wall.
- Fill the gaps in the bagPack cases and trays so they cannot slide against each other inside the bag; fill empty space with a soft item such as a cloth.
- Keep the bag upright and with youCarry the bag the way up the trays expect, and keep it in the cabin of the car, on your lap on public transport, or in cabin baggage on a plane.
- Unpack one tray at a timeAt the table, take out one tray or case at a time and close it again before opening the next, so a bumped table does not spill everything.
Car, train or plane
By car: put the bag in the cabin, on the floor behind a seat, rather than loose on a seat where braking throws it forward. Never leave models in a parked car on a warm day.
By train or bus: keep the bag on your lap or between your feet. Overhead racks mean a drop when you take it down.
By plane: models go in cabin baggage, not checked luggage. Checked bags are thrown, stacked and exposed to temperature swings. Pack so that the cases can be taken out for screening without unpacking every model — a security officer opening a box of loose figures is the most dangerous moment of the trip.
A small repair kit
Even well-packed models occasionally lose a part. A pocket in the bag with a tube of super glue, a few spare magnets, a hobby knife with its blade covered, and a small pot of your army’s main colours turns a broken model into a two-minute fix between games.
Hold every model so it cannot move, keep pressure off the thin parts, and keep models out of the heat. Any method that does those three things works.
Frequently asked questions
Is foam bad for painted miniatures?
Not immediately, but over many trips foam lets models move slightly, and that movement rubs paint off raised edges. Foam also compresses and can leave residue. It works best when the pocket is snug and the models are varnished.
Should I varnish miniatures before transporting them?
Yes. A coat of varnish protects the paint against the rubbing that happens even in good packing. Let it cure fully before packing, or it can stick to the case or foam.
Can I take miniatures on a plane?
Painted plastic and resin miniatures are normally fine in cabin baggage. Carry glue, knives and paint according to the airline’s and airport’s rules; blades usually have to go in checked baggage or stay at home.
How do I transport a very large model?
Give it its own container, hold it by the body or base rather than the extremities, and keep it upright. A case carved to the model is the most secure option; see cases for large models.
A fitted case for the models that matter
If you print your own miniatures, carve a case from the same STL: a pocket shaped to the figure and a sliding lid, made in your browser. Three free cases on an email address — no card.
Start the free trial